Alpha Training, Tips to Raise Your Mal By Options

[doris]

ALPHA TRAINING

You can start with one or two and work your way up as they become routine. The main thing is consistency! If you make a rule, you have to enforce it every time. Alpha training works so beautifully with young pups. They never get the control and thus don't fight it.

1. Alpha always eats first. Either change the dog's feeding time or grab a little bite of something before feeding your dog.(We make added advantages for the whole family by letting the dog have the last bite of whatever we are eating. He has to wait patiently. This way even my kids get Alpha! We also feed our cat first.)
2. Alphas always go through doorways first. This includes all doorways INSIDE the house. Either call the dog back to you or take her back and make her wait.
3. NO FREE LUNCH This means the dog has to do something for everything it gets. Most people have the dog sit, but you can also use down or come. This should include meals, treats, walks, pets, and anytime the dog wants out.
4. Alphas always have the highest position. This means don't let the dog on the furniture, especially the bed. While training, don't lay on the floor and DON"T ever let the dog stand over or on you. Don't let the dog put it's paws on your lap and stand with it's head higher.
5. Alphas always have clear passage. This means you teach the dog to move out of your way instead of walking around. Depending on temperament, you can walk up about a foot from the dog and say move and then keep walking. The dog should get out of the way. If this doesn't work at first, try luring with a treat or toy until she learns the command.
6. Alphas make the rules. This is probably the hardest! You have to show the dog that you decide when to play or pet her. Our rule was for every 3 times Kodiak asked to play or be petted, the 4th time we said no. You need to also stop a game before she is ready every few times. Don't wait for the dog to walk off and leave you
7 No rough play-At least until the dog is 12 to 18 mos and KNOWS it's place in the pack, you should avoid tug of war and wrestling. In dog terms (especially for young dogs), this is a way to test the other members of the pack to see who is vulnerable. In trying to let the dog have fun, we end up sending the wrong message with these games.
8 Alphas decide where and when to go. Use the tether(umbilical) system for bonding and Alpha training. When you are home, put a 6 ft leash on the dog and hook it to you. I used a leather belt and put the loop of the leash through it and buckled it around my waist even if I didn't have belt loops. To begin with, tell the dog when you are going to move. This teaches the dog to pay attention to you, that you are in control, and to wait patiently by your side. It helps a lot to talk to them and BE HAPPY! Make her feel she is helping by coming along. This worked great with Kodiak and now I can tie him to me anytime my hands are full and he follows right along.
9 Insist the dog obey first time, every time! This is probably one of the most important for independent breeds. Do not repeat yourself! Do not assume the dog did not hear you(they have excellent hearing for the things they are interested in!). Give a command, wait a few seconds, then put the dog in position or make him do what you said. If a pup is never allowed to ignore you, it will make training SO much easier and faster.

[doris]

Here are eight great reasons to tether-train your dog:

Better bonding. If your dog is overly independent and doesn't recognize your leadership, an excellent bonding exercise is to tether her next to you every possible minute when you're home. If you have trouble finding an object to tie her to, attach the tether to your belt or ankle. This is known as ãumbilical cording.ä

A feeling of safety. Close tether training gives a fearful dog the security of knowing where she belongs. She'll also adapt more easily to new environments since she'll ãknow the ropes.ä

Easier housetraining.. Dogs will avoid eliminating in their immediate surroundings, so tether-training can help you with housebreaking. Take your dog out regularly, and praise her lavishly for going in a sanctioned spot. If she doesn't do her business, return her to the tether and praise her for resting quietly.

A calming effect. Inside your car or at home, tethering will settle a hyperactive dog. If your dog gets especially wild around guests, designate a spot as hers and tether her there when you entertain. Set up a comfy bed there, so she can rest comfortably.

Soothing separation anxiety. If your dog gets upset when you leave or aren't nearby, close tethering is a useful technique. Gradually increase the time you keep her tethered, by just a minute or so each time and never so long that she shows signs of anxiety. Then tether her farther from you, gradually increasing the distance until you're out of her sight. Do this incrementally, so she's always comfortable (otherwise you could make the problem worse). When you need to go out, untie her, but ignore her when you leave and for a few minutes after you arrive. Making a fuss will undo this ãindependence training.ä

No more demolition dog. If your dog chews your shoes or digs up your flowers, tethering can limit her ability to destroy your possessions. While she's tethered, give her a Kong filled with goodies or a ãchew puzzleä (another kind of chew toy with food inside). If you think separation anxiety might be causing the destructive behavior and close tethering isn't helping, consult a professional behaviorist.

You're the boss. If your dog behaves aggressively, give her a calming ãtime-outä by tethering her near you for five to 10 minutes. By immediately establishing your leadership, tethering dispels her confusion over her status in the household hierarchy. If necessary, have your dog drag a leash from her collar, so you can control any volatile situation.

A member of society. You can use the tether as part of a socialization program. It's a way to allow your dog to see and be involved in people's activities without being the center of attention. Remember, a dog who can be peacefully tethered possesses a skill that'll prove handy in countless situations over her life.
from-petco.com

[doris]

Don't know if all these links are still working but found this in my files:

- With humans this challenge may take the form of the Mal
consistently refusing commands, becoming physically rough or
even growling. A grown Malamute cannot be physically forced
to obey or respect you, so don't bother using that method
with a pup. Early training and a good understanding of dog
behavior can go a long way in keeping a Malamute "in line".
Mals will respond best to "positive reinforcement" training
methods such as "clicker" training.
http://www.geocities.com/~texalmal/alasmal/wantamal.html

- You must ALWAYS correct unwelcome behavior or you TEACH
the dog to DO the unwelcome behavior. Don't meet violence
with violence, just gently, sternly correct the behavior and
if the dog accepts it, forget it & lightly go on with
things.
http://www.geocities.com/sleddogrescue/aggression.htm

-Malamutes are very smart, and because of this they grow
bored very easily, especially with repetition. Therefore,
when training a Malamute the trainer must always work with
positive reinforcement to keep the dog's interest and things
fresh. http://www.norsled.org/info.html

- Due to the character of the Malamute, they should never be
actively trained to be protective, vicious, or aggressive.
Their very nature makes them lousy watch dogs. It is against
their instincts to make them into watch or guard type dogs.
It has been tried in the past with disastrous results.
http://www.geocities.com/alaskanmalamutere...About-Mals.htm_

- Unless you are defending yourself or another person, or an
animal, from attack, it is never, absolutely never,
appropriate to hit, kick, throw or otherwise manhandle a
dog. They have a very strong sense of what is and isn't
fair, and they know that such behaviour is not fair. At
best, they will lose respect for you; at worst, one or both
of you will be injured.
http://www.geocities.com/alaskanmalamutere.../About-Mals.htm

[doris]

THE RELEASE COMMAND

Many people complain that their dog will obey a command but them hop up and do what they want. The dog seems to be listening with only half an ear. The secret is the release command. When you begin teaching the basics; sit, down, stay, and come, be sure to teach a one word command to tell the dog he is finished. Some suggestions are OK, Out, Done, Over, etc. Choose a word you will not say often in usual conversation or as part of training. To begin with, you will have the dog hold a command for just 30 seconds or so. Try to give the release command before they break the position. Give the command, say good dog in a calm voice, hold the position, say release word and big praise. As your dog succeeds in holding the command for the short time, slowly add 30 seconds or so and practice. You will find your dog pays closer attention to you and does not tune out as soon as he obeys a single command.
Important! If you choose to use this command, remember to release your dog! Although our Mals are smart enough not to sit around forever if you walk off and forget them, it will set you back in training for the dog to release himself.

[doris]

Dog to Dog Communication
by: Dr. Nicholas Dodman

Dogs use different parts of their bodies to communicate with each other.

Without a sound, two properly socialized dogs meeting for the first time can size each other up in just a few moments. An exchange of glances can tell each canine if they're going to be friends or enemies.

How can dogs do this without a sophisticated verbal language? The answer: facial expressions, body language and posturing. Although dogs signal intent by barks and growls, the message is not complete without the telegraphy of body and facial language.

Various parts of the dog's body are involved in this form of communication. Here is a quick primer in canine body language.

Facial Expressions
A combination of facial expressions communicate a dog's mood and intentions that can be understood by other species, including humans. Here are a few examples of facial communication:

Relaxed mood: Soft eyes, lit up, looking - but not staring. Ears forward or flopped, with tips bent over (if anatomically possible). Mouth open, lips slightly back, giving the impression of smiling. Tongue hanging limply from the side of the mouth

Anxiety: Eyes glancing sideways or away. Ears to the side of the head or flopped. Teeth clenched, lips firmly retracted. Tongue either not evident or lip licking

Intimidating: Eyes staring like searchlights. Ears forward. Teeth bared

Fearfulness: Eyes looking forward or away, pupils dilated. Ears pressed back close to the head. Panting/breathing hard through clenched or slightly open mouth. Jaw tense so that sinews show in the cheeks

Stress: Yawning plus other signs of anxiety or fearfulness (as above)

Head-Neck Position

Head down ("hang dog"): Submission or depression

Head in normal mid-way position: Everything is all right

Head/neck turned to side: Deference

Head held high/neck craning forward: Interest or, depending on other signs, a challenge

Head resting on other dog's back: Demonstrating dominance

Torso/Trunk/Upper Limb

Tensing of muscles and the raising of hackles: Threat/imminent fight
Gestures

Play bow - head low, rump elevated: The universal sign of canine happiness and an invitation to play

Paws on top of another dog's back: Dominance

Looming over: Dominance

Rolling over: Submission/deference

Urinating by squatting: Deference

Urinating by leg lifting: Dominance/defiance

Humping: Dominance

Backing: Unsure/fearful

Tail Position

Tail up: Alert, confident, dominant

Tail wagging: Dog's energy level is elevated (excited or agitated)

Tail held low or tucked: Fearful, submissive

Tail held horizontal and wagging slowly: Caution

Tail held relaxed and stationary: Contented dog

There is no one sign that gives away a dog's feelings but if you consider all the body language signs, you can get a pretty good idea of what's going on in the dog's head. A dog that is staring at another dog, his ears pricked and his tail stiff, is probably conveying dominance, or at least a wish for it.

A dog that averts his gaze from another dog and hunkers down nervously as if waiting for an explosion is likely fearful and is trying to defuse the situation by acting submissive.

Sometimes body language signs can be ambivalent, however. For example, it is not uncommon to observe a dog growling at another dog while occasionally glancing to the side, backing up, and with his tail wagging. Such a dog is invariably fearful. Whenever fear signs are present, fear is in the equation. These dogs are unpredictable with other dogs and will alter their body language and behavior according to circumstances. If the opposing dog retires, they may jump around and "look happy." If the opposing dog approaches too close the fearful one may snap or bite. Owners, if present, can help defuse their dog's ambivalence and uncertainty by taking a strong leadership role. It's amazing how rapidly a fearful dogâs disposition will change when an authoritative owner steps in and controls the moment. Dogs need strong leaders.

Another aspect of communication is odor. Because dogs have such an amazing sense of smell, it is likely that they learn a lot about other dogs from their smell. That's what all the sniffing is about. It is difficult to imagine what sort of information passes between dogs via this medium. We do know that intact male dogs "smell male" (because of male sex pheromones) and that neutered males do not have this characteristic musk. By neutering males, we alter the olfactory signals they emit and thus other dog's perception of them. It may even be that the "non-male smell" equates with a diestrus (in-between heat periods) or a neutered bitch smell.

When an intact male dog meets a neutered one, the response may not be confrontational because the other dog doesn't perceive a rival. He may believe the neutered dog is female.

Non-verbal communications signaling "let's play," "leave me alone," "who do you think you're talking to," "I'm not going to cause you a problem, I promise," are going on all the time between dogs but many dog owners don't realize it. It's amazing what can be conveyed with the odd glance or posture. Some dogs are masters at such subtle language.

The worst canine communicators are those dogs that have been raised without the company of other dogs during a critical inter-dog socialization phase of their lives (3 to 6 weeks). Hand raised orphans provide an extreme example of what may be lacking. Many of these dogs are socially inappropriate having not learned canine communication and social etiquette. They may attack and continue to attack another dog when the psychological war is already won. They may not know how to signal defeat when they are being attacked themselves. And that's just the (extreme) tip of their communication failures.

Most dogs are not this "dyslexic" and can communicate what they need - as with humans - but the good communicators usually have the edge. Fully functional body language is a beautiful thing that can help resolve uncertainties at a glance. Humans communicate in body language too. We're just not so good at it and some of us are positively stiff. If dogs could talk they'd probably categorize us as "dumb animals."

[Hiram]

Todd

I think Doris posted tips on how to help shape the relationships that people have with their dogs. The point of #2 and what the guest was saying is that you as the person can exert leadership and control over your dogs to avoid problems.

Alpha may not really be a good term because we are not dogs or wolves. In the wild, alphas are challenged when weak or sick, get scars from fights when proving who is alpha, and ultimately are killed or forced out of the pack. We are not dogs so the term alpha may not be a descriptive term and can cause confusion is it did in #2.

Teaching your dog not to run through a door until you say it is ok, teaches the dog control. It doesn't matter if you let the dog go ahead or behind you, but it is a helpful if the dog waits for you to tell him when it is ok.

It is also a safefy thing.

[Lori]

Hiram,

I totally agree with you on the terminology. I wish there was a word to describe the position that humans, especially the humans in the dog's 'pack', should hold. I describe myself as 'alpha' over the dogs, and at the same time, there is a decided 'alpha' dog and bitch in the pack. But *I* certainly am superior to the 'alpha' dog and bitch of the pack. And so is every other human they meet! Sometimes I say the human should be the 'supreme' alpha, but that doesn't sound appropriate, somehow.


I also agree with the safety issue about doors.

When you have multiple dogs and are going through doorways, it's always best to go first to be sure that the dog(s) following you will be OK with whatever dog might be loose outside/inside.

Just today, while visiting Jackai, I opened the outside door, not knowing that Jackai had let Rocky out to play with Tigar (7-Year-old littermate brothers). I was letting Silver (3-year-old male) outside to play with Tigar, who he gets along with. But Silver DOESN'T always get along with Rocky! And Tigar would have jumped in on Rocky's side if a fight had ensued. Potentially bad situation. But because the dog's don't charge out the doors, they didn't meet head on. It was a close call, though!

Also, another safety factor is that if the dog learns they can't go first, they aren't likely to try to bolt past you from behind. A large dog hitting the back of your knees can be disasterous. :D

Not so much about safety is the simple fact that as the human is the one to turn the knobs, it's more convenient if the dog is waiting patiently behind, instead of the human having to lean over or around the dog to try to jiggle the door open while the dog is trying to shove through.

Rule #2 is thoroughly enforced around here, for numerous reasons!

[Guest_moe]

Actually I have always done rule two for various reasons safety being one of them, but mainly because when I was little my uncle who could naturally wrap any dog around his finger in minutes told me that the "leader" of a pack would go first to make sure that there was no danger ahead for the rest of the pack, and that I as dog owner had that right, I was the one that had to go first because I was the leader of my dogs pack, at the time I did'nt fully understand this, but I did take heed of what he said and have always gone through doorways etc first naturally, and up to now all my dogs have accepted this, sadlu my uncle is no longer with us but his memory of being a very gentle man who had total respect from his dogs remains.

Mo

[dalomity]

I agree with fuzzy about not using toys or treats to teach your mal to get out of the way. I wont bribe my dogs into doing that or anything else that deals with teaching my dogs I am alpha or maintaining my alpha position. If my dogs are in my way I tell them to move and if they don't, I plow, push, nudge, scoot or whatever to MAKE them move. Treat training is a touchy way to train a dog, you should only use a treat in the earliest stages of training for a new behavior, trick or whatever, NEVER alpha training. Tethering is a good thing to do while your puppy is young. As far as going through the door first, I think it depends on what is easiest for you, as long as you are calling the shots, always keep them guessing!!

Lorna :D

[doris]

Hey everyone!
How about if we use the term "leader"? Alpha means to be first so you would be leading your dog. Might help with the confusion. :rolleyes:

Anyway! In training your dog to look to you as it's leader, going through doorways first is usually on the list. I picked the first three decent sites I found but there are tons just like it.

"Put Yourself First
The Alpha always, always comes first. The first to eat, the first to enter the shelter, the first to choose the softest, most comfortable resting place.
You, as Alpha, need to establish a routine of being "First".

Eat first, then feed your dogs their meal.
Go through the doors of your house first.
Get comfortable in bed first, before allowing your dog to settle.
Be the first on the sofa when relaxing.
http://dogs.about.com/cs/basictraining/a/alternatives.htm

Leaders go first. When going through a door, gate, or other opening, you go first. Have the dog do a sit-wait or down-wait. If the dog doesn't know wait/stay yet, block the entrance with your body to keep the dog from rushing past you.
http://www.forpaws.org/articles/alpha.htm

You have to stay one step ahead of him. Never let him go out the door before you. Never step over him if he is laying in your way. Make him move out of your way. The alpha never steps over ANYONE. NEVER let him sleep in your bed, EVER !! http://www.wolfweb.com.au/acd/alpha.htm

Yes, it is a good idea for safety and to not have to fight your way out the door but the main thing is, Kodiak stops, looks back, and waits for me to pass, and FOLLOWS me out of the door. He knows he doesn't have the option to choose to go on his own.

On #5 "clear passage", you'll notice it says "depending on temperment" whether you physically push through or lure the dog. I deal with many owners who didn't set the rules when the puppy was young. By the time they look for help, they have a large adolecent dog who is confronting them. Many of these dogs live indoors as an only dog or with one other dog companion. They have been babied, see the house as their territory, and already see themselves as the leader of the family. To tell an owner to physically start pushing the leader issue is asking for a bite. Yes, many of us are expereinced in handling dogs, understand the importance of body language and tone of voice. Still, many owners see their dogs as little people in fur and have no idea they are giving off signs of fearfulness or uncertainity. The Alpha Training Tips I put together use most of the advice I could find on the subject without any real physical confrontation. It is the safest way to give advice to an novice owner dealing with a dog who is pushing the issue.

I agree about not using treats to train a Mal. Kodiak went through 6 mos of Obedience classes without treat rewards. While I kept thinking how much easier it would be to use treats, I was so happy I didn't rely on them once he hit his rebellious stage. First dog I ever saw who turned his nose up at ham, turkey, etc simply because he wasn't going to do what I wanted. :lol:

Talk to ya'll soon!

[Kokamal Storm]

I am kind of curious what is meant by command only once and if they don't do it Make Them? How exactly do you make them? I have spent alot of time with a breeder (for over 30 years) and mal behaviouralist Sue Gingerich and she said to command once but make it very positive when working with your dog so that they are interested and make yourself more interesting then anything else and it helps to keep them attentive but Never be negative with a mal.
So I was wondering in making them do something its it treat positive reinforced or Positive punishment?

[MalsRule]

Positive reinforcement.

When they're pups, the treats for good behavior flow like crazy. As they get a particular behavior learned, less treats for that (they don't look for them as often either after the behavior becomes good habit) and then you're on to the next behavior you're working on, again, lavish with treats. Always lavish praise along with the treats.

Sheryl

[Patty & Bill]

She means don't give a command you're not willing to back up. It has nothing to do with punishment.

For example: the dog jumps on your bed. You give the command "off" the dog doesn't listen. You get up and take the dog by the collar and get him off the bed.

You wouldn't sit there and say " I said get off the bed. I just made it. I spent three hundred on those sheets. I said get off. Do you want to go for a walk. How about a cookie and then you'll get off. Ok tell me when you're ready and then get off the bed. Ok you look so snuggly there. You can stay there just this once but never again!" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[doris]

You give a command only once because you are teaching the dog that he should be paying attention and obey what you say right away. It really does no good to train a dog without following through and making sure the command is obeyed. Especially with a breed like a Malamute, who is an independant thinker anyway. They need to be taught that they MUST obey.

This can be easily achieved with positive training. You begin teaching a command by saying the word and placing or guiding the dog followed by praise or a treat. After a few repetitions, you give the command, wait a second, and if they don't obey or at least make a move in the right direction, you don't say No, you once again physically position them or guide them and then praise/treat.

Training should begin in a place with no distractions and you should be working in close proximity to your dog. You don't show him how to sit a couple times and then command a sit from halfway across the yard. The idea is to slowly lengthen the space between you and the dog as he masters each command. You want to set the dog up to succeed so that training is fun and he understands what you are asking of him.

The biggest mistake people make is calling a dog to come when the dog is not reliable on recall and the owner has no way to back up the command. The owner says Come a few times (usually with their voice getting louder and more frustrated), then the owner either resorts to bribes ("Want a cookie?") or begins to verbally punish the dog by telling them they are bad, etc. I tell owners to save the come command for when they can make sure the dog will obey. If the dog is in the back yard and you want to call him in, use "Here", "Inside", "To me", etc. That way, if he chooses to ignore you, you can get him inside however works and you don't ruin the come command which you need for when you are in public places, if the dog gets out of the house/yard, obedience trails, etc.

[doris]

Moving up old posts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)